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Vindolanda Roman Fort is the most important site on the Hadrian’s Wall complex, and probably the most important Roman site in Britain. The reason is the Tablets (handwritten letters from 1900 years ago written by a whole range of people) and the huge number of finds found on site. This has been made possible by at least 8 forts built one on top of another. Each time the site was levelled and then covered by an airtight layer of clay, which preserved what lay underneath. 7000 shoes have been found, which is just an indication of the magnitude of the artefacts found
History
The Romans first occupied this area in the early 70’s AD, in fact, a fort was built at Carlisle in 73 AD and there was a fort at Corbridge before 80 AD. , The Stanegate was the road across the county from Corbridge to Carlisle and was built around 80 AD. Vindolanda lies immediately south of this road about 15 miles west of Corbridge and a mile south of what became Hadrian’s Wall.
The evolution of the forts under the visible remains is fully described separately, in this link.
The Invisible Forts of Vindolanda
Vindolanda’s importance lies in the remains under those that are visible today. From 85AD, when the first fort was built south of the Stanegate one fort was built on top of another. Until 140AD they were built of turf with wooden palisades and towers. From the replicas built on site, it’s been identified that a turf wall will last no more than 15 years. The current replica was built in 2016 and is the third built. The first was built in 1973.
The Romans would replace a fort by demolishing the existing fort and sealing the site with a thick layer of clay, including the ditches where all the rubbish had accumulated. When the first fort was built, it was on a slope and steps would have been needed as you headed to the south wall. Over time the site was flattened. The early forts are 25ft in places below the remains visible today.
Down to the last fort
This method of demolition along with a very wet site provided very unique oxygen free conditions, with little or no decay, Therefore leather, wood and textiles were able to be preserved over 1900 years, hence the rubbish ditches provided about 1300 tablets, 7000 shoes and many other artefacts would not have survived elsewhere.
It has been necessary to dig through the floors of 3rd century remains to access these artefacts in the early forts.
The first fort south of the Stanegate was very close to the remains seen today from the 3rd century fort. From the 90s AD, it expand west doubling in size and then reverted to about the original size in the 140s, which was a small insignificant 3.5-acre fort.
Generally, the cohorts here were infantry units with a cavalry contingent. (Theoretically six centuries of infantry- 480 men plus 120 cavalry). The size of the garrison varied from under 300 to 1000 plus, as does the size of the forts from 3.5 acres to 7 acres. Vindolanda Roman Fort was one of the primary forts on Stanegate. This was the de facto frontier from soon after 100AD until the Wall was built. The fort was generally occupied throughout the Roman occupation. It was probably a major depot during the building of the Wall and would have been a hive of activity. When the Wall was largely completed just before 138AD, it continued to be occupied and acquired its first stone wall, but the size was reduced to a similar size and location to the visible remains seen today.
It remained an important supply route even after the Military Way was built in the 160s, and enhanced following the withdrawal from Scotland.
When Emperor Septimius Severus invaded Scotland in 208AD, it was abandoned and then mainly demolished to make way for a village of about 300 native roundhouses, which was located where the fort ruins can be seen today. The roundhouses remains can be seen today around the interior fort.
The New Fort
In 213AD it was decided to demolish the fort and village and build a new fort, which forms the basis of the remains seen today. The new fort was moved 30 feet south and the Western Wall was built on the existing wall of the stone fort dating from the 160s and very soon collapsed along with the western gate. Overall was not Roman construction at its best, and repairs were frequently necessary.
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The interior of the fort was significantly changed towards the fourth century and housed a smaller garrison and the civilian population, following the abandonment of the Vicus in about 270AD probably with the decline of the garrison making it no longer economically viable.
Occupation continued after the end of Roman control of Britain with artefacts dating to the 8th century.
Replicas
In 1973 it was decided to build replicas of a Wall turret in stone and a Milecastle gateway in turf and timber. How they looked particularly at the top is a pure guess.
The illustration above shows some alternatives. The turret and wall are built o Roman stone. Whether there was a walkway and stone parapet is unknown. The height of the turret is also unknown. These replicas were originally built in 1973 without planning permission, and the planners criticised the turret because the foundations were too shallow and were not in keeping with the Northumbrian rural architecture, the press sided with the Trust and no action was taken.
The turf Milecastle gate was replaced in 2016; they have in the past been shrunken by rabbits. Rabbits are part of the problem (a problem that the Romans would not have encountered). Even so, it looks likely that the Romans would have needed to rebuild the Milecastle after about 15 years
Southgate of Fort III
This wooden and turf fort existed from 97 to 105 AD and was larger than the fort’s remains you see today. The Batavians were posted to Romania at short notice, and everything that could not be carried was dumped, providing rich picks for the archaeologist. It was very close to this gate that the remains of the bonfire of the tablets were found and 300 were recovered. They were from the Prefect’s office. This fort was the usual playing card shape, but twice the size of the fort you see today.
See the Details.
1st Century Bath House
About 100AD the Batavians built a new bathhouse for its 1000 strong regiment, it is recorded in the tablets, as can be seen, it is quite large, and was demolished in 140’ probably for that very reason
Location of large Wooden Palace
Close to the South West corner of the visible fort was a very large wooden building, it was 50 yards square. The date indicates around 120AD. Emperor Hadrian visited Britain in 122AD; the Army would need a building of this size to house his entourage. Vindolanda is almost in the middle of the future 73 mile Wall and a mile to the south; an ideal location to survey the route of the Wall
Servian Fort
To the west of the current fort, a new rather strange military establishment was built, covering what are the remains of Vicus stands today. The fort was built in 208 AD at the time of Emperor Septimius Severus’ invasion of Scotland. It was constructed with a clay mound and ditch instead of a wall surrounding the commander’s house and several barracks blocks.
Ad 208 commander’s large house, the Strange Servian Fort VIb can be seen in the later civil settlement area, it probably later had other uses.
The existing stone fort was demolished and replaced with about 300 native huts (with a low circular wall and thatched roof, similar to what the locals would use in this area).
It is still unclear why,
Construction workers to repair the Wall or a site to house Scottish hostages are the best options.
When Septimius Severus died in York in 211, the invasion of Scotland was abandoned and Caracalla (his son and successor) left for Rome, the fort was demolished and the ruins of the new fort are those you see today.
Again you will see its location as Fort VIB HERE
The excavations in 2019 are covering the area north of the Servian Fort and the Vicus, next to the Stanegate Road.
Excavations north of the new fort
Civilian Settlement Area (Vicus).
Vicus north of the new fort
Following the building of the new fort in 213AD, a village developed west of the fort It was of sufficient size to have limited self-government. The main street heads west from the fort and was probably lined with shops and bars, behind Main St were workshops.
This is a typical strip house on the main street, with a narrow front, probably with accommodation and possibly workshops behind.
It would be similar to this.
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A large tavern was located close to the Westgate, where a large number of coins and dice were found.
At about 270AD the Vicus was abandoned, this occurred all along the Wall. It is probably because the garrisons were reduced and the services provided were less viable and the traders moved elsewhere. Other Vicus’ in the North were prospering,
Recent findings indicate all the forts had civil settlements, whether they were self-governing Vicus, which is another matter.
Forts II, 111, IV, and V were all under the Vicus, these forts have been excavated through the floors of the building. The trust is not allowed to remove the walls of the buildings. The principal buildings in the centre of Forts IV and V were directly under Vicus. These excavations have been ongoing in recent years.
3rd century Bath House
3rd century Bath House
To the north west of the Vicus, the settlement is 3rd century bathhouse. This would serve the fort as a social centre not just a place to get clean.
3rd century bath House as it was
The 1st century bathhouse was over 200 years old and had been designed for 1000 men, as against a garrison perhaps of 300.
The New Fort
From the Vicus enter the fort by the Westgate. The VII Fort was completely built in the 2nd decade of the 3rd century following the demolition of the native village. It does not follow the Wall forts; it does not have double gates although in many respects it is similar. The remains of the wall still completely surround the fort up to 10 feet high. The Westgate is a single gate with a tower on each side with a door. The flags were added later.
The Granaries
On your right are two large buildings, again built in the 3rd century but at different times. In one you see the raised floor to allow ventilation under the floor. In the second building, the floor was removed when the building was converted to living accommodation at the end of the 4th century. It appears the building was occupied long after Roman times.
The Headquarters Building
This was the administrative centre of the fort; it has a rather unusual design. The front of the building had a veranda, similar to the African forts. This was later enclosed and became storage rooms. The courtyard was smaller than usual and had verandas on three sides, which were later enclosed. The tribunal from where the commander addressed the cohort is present along with 2 steps. The building had the usual 5 rooms with a regimental chapel in the centre. Other rooms were for clerical purposes originally like most other HQ buildings. There was no strong room just a pit to store the money.
In the 4th century, most of the rooms were used for storage (with raised floors) and at this time two of the rooms had underfloor heating added along with lavatories. In the courtyard, a well was added.
The Commander’s House
This was not only where the commander and his family lived, but it was also where he did his desk work and he held most of his meetings. It was a massive courtyard house of over 7000 square ft. with 18 rooms. The commander’s Houses in the 3rd century were all bigger and better as we saw earlier at Binchester and Piercebridge. Erected with the rest of the fort in the second decade of the 3rd century and significantly changed about 300AD. It is not easy to determine the purpose of the rooms
There was likely a second storey on the east side of the building. The south and east wings were demolished when the building was changed and a building was added that might have been a Christian church.
South East Cavalry Barracks
Behind the Commander’s House and the HQ Building, the excavations are largely laid out as 4th century barracks, which continued to be occupied into 5th and 6th centuries, but the buildings were altered, but the charges showed purpose and uniformity and a church was added.
There were 3 barracks were laid out east to west instead of the usual north-south. The finds indicate that the occupants were wealthy, unlike the rest of the fort. The cavalry was likely from a separate unit, possibly part of the elite mobile field army.
.In June 2014 a gold coin was found with Nero’s head, this is very rare as it would amount to half a year’s pay for an ordinary soldier. It had been in circulation for 300 years when it was lost.
Underneath the barracks was found an Antonine courtyard building of the first stone fort VI. Below this building was found a beautifully preserved cavalry barracks from Fort IV (105 to 120AD) with 13 rooms. 6 stables with a urine pit
The unit occupying these barracks was the Vardilli from Spain with the Tungrians infantry also on site
West of the barracks and south of the HQ building is a large water tank; it was almost the size of a small swimming pool. It collected water from the many springs on site and was located initially outside. In the 4th century, it was enclosed in a building possibly in a temple with a raised dais to the west. The building was later demolished and steps were added leading into the water tank, possibly used for baptismal purposes
Southgate
It is a simple construction and there is a step down to the road meaning it was unsuitable for carts. There is evidence that it was eventually blocked We know to move to the northern section of the fort, north of the west / east road starting from the Westgate on the left.
The Village within the Fort
This area was originally barracks (AD213) remaining in use to the end of the 3rd century; each consisted of rooms housing 8 troopers. It is possible that these buildings were 2 stores high, as suggested by the thickness of the walls. Windows were found along with hearths or fireplaces increasing the comfort level compared to the Wall forts. As already mentioned the Vicus was abandoned about 270AD and the remains of the civil community moved into the fort and some of the barracks were demolished.
A series of over 20 shops, houses yards and workshops were added later and were inhabited well after Roman times. One of the buildings still bears the name of its owner, Riacus, possibly a post-Roman name from the 5th or 6th century.
The body of a child aged 8-11 is buried just under the floor in a corner of a room in the barracks. This was probably a murder as burials were always made outside the fort or civil settlement.
Temple to Jupiter Dolichenus
This extremely rare temple (in a fort) was built in 22OAD by the garrison commander. Jupiter Dolichenus was an ancient weather god from modern Turkey, who was widely worshipped until the end of the 3rdnd century. It is widely associated with feasting but was destroyed in 370 AD as Christianity took hold.
North Gate
Northgate is just south of the Stanegate and dates from the building of the 213AD fort. It was built with stone recycled from the first stoned wall fort. To the east, the wall was built over the circular roundhouse as illustrated above.
LATRINES
From the Northgate, you pass the remains of the circular huts under the wall. In the north east corner is the latrine able to accommodate about 12 to 14 people. In the south east corner, there is a similar latrine, which presently is not accessible because of the excavations.
Other Building outside the Fort
Vindolanda was the ideal spot in the central location to survey the course of the Wall. Like almost all Roman forts Vindolanda was mainly supplied with water from a viaduct drawing water from a spring north west of the fort. The picture shows a reconstruction of the viaduct with some original parts.
In the north west corner of the site is a Roman Celtic temple. The Roman settlement very often adopted local deities. Some were merged with Rome’s traditional gods.
Mining, Smelting and Metal Work
One of the advantages of this site is that it has a steam in a small gorge almost on three sides, where there are deposits of lead, iron and coal. These were mined during Roman times and smelting was done on site. This is the largest workshop found on site in the south west corner. There were other workshops in the Vicus.
The Museum Tablets and Artefacts
The museum is on the other side of the site from the entrance. This has been completely renewed with lottery grants and a selection of Vindolanda tablets has been returned to the site. The museum also houses the best of the many artefacts found as a result of over 40 years of excavations. It is all very well done. The Vindolanda Trust proudly asserts that there is a further 150 years of excavation to complete. As previously stated there are about 7000 shoes, lots of pottery and many coins, which help in dating the site. The tablets were thin slithers of wood used instead of paper, which was then not readily available. Ink pens were used as with paper. About 1300 have been found to date.
To read all the tablets go to Vindolanda Tablets. An example is shown below:
“Claudia Severa to her Lepidina greetings. On 11 September, sister, for the day of the celebration of my birthday, I give you a warm invitation to make sure that you come to us, to make the day more enjoyable for me by your arrival, if you are present (?). Give my greetings to your Cerialis. My Aelius and my little son send him (?) their greetings. (2nd hand) I shall expect you sister. Farewell, sister my dearest soul, as I hope to prosper, and hail”. Back: (1st hand) ‘To Sulpicia Lepidina, wife of Cerialis, from Severa’. Sulpicia Lepidina was the wife of Flavius Cerealis, prefect of the Ninth Cohort of Batavians. This birthday invitation is one of two letters she received from Claudia Severa, wife of Aelius Brocchus. The scribe who wrote the greater part of this letter is the same person who wrote the letter from Niger and Brocchus to Flavius Cerealis. The handwriting of Severa herself (the 2nd hand) is less elegant, but it is one of the earliest known examples of writing in Latin by a woman.
Many of the tablets date from about 100AD and resulted from the Batavians moving at short notice and burning unnecessary documents on a fire that was probably put out by the rain.
The Vindolanda Trust
Modern excavation started in the 1930.s and continued off and on through the 1960s. Daphne Archibald, mother of one of the volunteers bought the field in early 1970 and gave the 13 acres to the newly founded charity the Vindolanda Trust. The trustees consisted of three members of the Archibald family, three members of the Birley family, namely Prof Eric and his two sons Prof Tony and Robin; and Charles Bosanquet, and Vice Chancellor of Newcastle University.
It soon immerged that full time staff was required, Robin as Director of Excavation and Patricia his later wife, as everything else. The Trust now has 100 acres of land and 2 museums with 40 staff, excluding volunteers. The Trust has been largely funded by visitor entrance fees, with Lottery grants, without which there would be almost no excavations anywhere.
The Roman Army Museum was established 20 minutes up the road close to the site of the Roman Fort at Carvoran, which it owns, and excavations start in 2023 and will provide some decades of excavation in the years to come, the museum provides a wonderful background on the men, who built the Wall and is wonderful for children.
Robin Birley retired as Director of Excavation after 36 years in 2008 and was succeeded by his son Andrew Birley. Robin died in 2018 at the age of 83.
Very few sites have added more to our knowledge of Roman history and a great debt is owed to the Birley family. If you wish to know more about the site read “Vindolanda A Roman Frontier Fort on Hadrian’s Wall” by Robin Birley, although it is a little dated, it gives a good account of the forts under the visible ruins
Links
Vindolanda’s Invisible Forts Click How the fort developed through its history
Excavations at Vindolanda – the evidence for a Frontier constantly in transition” by Andrew Birley, Vindolanda Chief Executive His 2018 Lecture click Here
There is also a gallery of photographs all with descriptions. Click to see
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