Location
Housesteads Roman Fort is the most impressive site on the Wall.
It situated close to the centre of the Wall off Military Road (B 6318). The Wall stretches 73 miles from Wallsend in the east and Bowness in the west.
It is visually the most impressive of all the Wall forts.
This was likely a place where incursions were expected. A second fort was built only 4.5 miles further East at Carrawburgh by the Tungrians. To the west, it is believed that Great Chesters was added to the original plan. Vindolanda, one of the Stanegate forts was only 1.5 miles southwest was rebuilt in the 120s., but originally built forty years before on the Stanegate, the major East/West Roman road.
This is the heaviest concentration of forts on the Wall, with the largest garrison at Housesteads
Housesteads Roman Fort
The Latin name of Housesteads Roman Fort, Vercovcum can be translated as “hilly place”, which it is, on the crest of the hill just east of a line of cliffs. The size of the fort indicates that it was garrisoned by a military cohort, which was an elite regiment of 800 to 1000 infantry. It measures 367ft by 610ft and unusually faces east. It covers five acres and had one of the largest garrisons on the Wall. Most of the forts had a garrison of about 500 men.
It was built sometime after 124AD following the decision to move the forts to the Wall from the Stanegate. It was only necessary to remove a turret, although the foundations of the wall had been built. The fort’s northern wall was built 23ft north of the original line of the wall. Like many forts on the Wall was designed on a drawing board hundreds of miles from the site. The drop from the north gate was probably too steep for a cart
Southgate
This is where today you enter the fort. In the seventeenth century a house was attached to the east tower, and a corn drying kiln was constructed in the tower. The east portal was blocked early in the occupation as the road leads to the western portal. The gate leads to the civil community south of the fort.
Water Supply and Latrines
This is a fort without a water supply. Nearly all the other forts had an aqueduct. Situated on the ridge it is not surprising, but still very inconvenient. Water was collected from the roofs in tanks throughout the site, but most had to be carted uphill from the Knag Burn about 120 yards north-west of the site. Originally the fort had a bathhouse situated by the burn.
A garrison of this size would require about 20 tons of water daily. Situated east of the Southgate by the fort’s wall are the latrines. There are very well preserved including a 23800 litre stone water tank. Water flowed anticlockwise around the room when available and there were 2 stone pots when it was not. Contrary to popular legend they did not use sponges on sticks to clean themselves at Housesteads but moss or rags.
Eastgate
This is the main entrance to the fort and is south of the wall. The north portal was well used and the military way entered the fort by this portal leading directly to the Headquarters building. According to local legend, the width of the ruts was used by George Stephenson to determine the width of the standard railway gauge, unfortunately, it is not true.
The Barracks
Two barrack buildings are visible; there would have been 10 originally. Each would house 80 men in 10 rooms with 2 room apartments for the officers at the end. The rooms were a little over 10ft square. It would have been very crowded. Pictured is a reconstruction of a barracks block as built-in 120s.
In the late third century, these barracks were replaced by smaller chalets, the ruins of which can be seen today. The size of the garrison had probably reduced by 80%. The large garrisons were north of the Wall It is probable that it also provided the space for accommodation for wives and families. The civil community probably disappeared about this time.
Hall or Storeroom
Towards the end of the third century, a large new building was added, it was built where barracks had previously stood. It probably had a second floor. Its purpose is unknown, but it could have been used to collect taxes in kind.
Later after it was demolished a bathhouse was built on the same site in the fourth century. Perhaps a bathhouse over 100 yards from the fort had become too dangerous. The diagram shows a building 3 times the size of the ruin, it was very small.
Northgate and Wall
Originally a large ramp was built so the gate could be accessed, but this was abandoned in the late second century as the approach was too steep. There was a large water tank to take the rain from the roof. It was the only access north of the wall, and to solve the problem a new gate was built near the Knab burn in the valley. At first the fort’s wall had an earth rampart behind it, which later were removed for workshops. Later additional towers were built to improve security. Just behind the north wall are the foundations of the turret (centre) which was demolished to build the fort
The Granaries
When first built there was a large single granary, this was later divided into 2 buildings. The floor was built in stilts to give ventilation under the floor and to discourage vermin. There are vents in the wall. An 18th century corn drying kiln was built into the southern granary.
Headquarters Building
This was the centre for administration and religious life of the fort in the middle of the fort and faces you when enter the fort through the main eastern gate. It follows the classic design based on a town forum. The courtyard later had rooms added under the colonnade. You then enter the hall, off which are 5 rooms, the Strong Room, the shrine (where the standard was kept) and 3 offices.
Hospital
Housesteads is unusual because it has a hospital, which is next to the headquarters building; it is similar to a commander’s house with a courtyard surrounded by rooms, but smaller.
Commanding Officer’s House
This atypical commanding officer’s house was designed as a Mediterranean Villa, similar to the house that the commander would return to after his 3 years in command. He would come with his family and slaves. It would serve as his office. Only the dining room and perhaps the bath had underfloor heating, less than other forts.
The Westgate
This is one of the best preserved gates on the wall. Both portals were eventually blocked. Just south of the gate are some buildings added at a later date, one was certainly used as a bread oven.
The Vicus
Early Civil Settlement
Early in the 2nd century a settlement developed south of the fort and the Vallum, which was 100 yards from the fort. This was close to a causeway over the Vallum. The area inside the Vallum was more important early in the second century because it was considered a secure area, although unlike Benwell did not have a gate tower. Later in the 2nd century significant stone buildings were constructed here, which were abandoned late in the 2nd century probably because of 181 and 197AD. There was an exception regarding a circular temple, which continued to be used into the 3rd century.
The Later Vicus
In the third century, a Vicus developed of a significant size, inside the Vallum. The term Vicus denotes a civil settlement with a recognised civil authority, identified from inscriptions. The settlement straggled the roads going south and east of the fort. It would have included accommodation from families, taverns, shops and workshops.
There was a large amount of metalworking on site, although no smelting has been found.
A building in the south west of the Southgate had impressive stonework and may have served an official function, perhaps the town hall or the house of an official of British Governor.
It is difficult to identify the size of the settlement; a wooden building would only be identified by modern detail archaeology
To the south of the settlement was a tavern. Under the floor of the tavern were found two skeletons, one a tall robust man point in the ribs, the other body was through to be a woman.
The Vicus was probably largely abandoned at the end of 3rd century, although coins show some occupation as late as 330AD. The indication is that the garrison could have been as low as 150 by the end of 3rd century after nearly 90 years of peace.
With this size of the garrison the Vicus was not viable economically and there was no shortage of space in the fort. The abandonment of the Vicus probably is related to the conversion of the barrack into chalets, which could house far fewer troops, but could accommodate their families
On a ridge further south of Vicus called Chapel Hill was a temple of Mithras used well into the 3rd century contained altars which can be seen in the Hancock Museum in Newcastle
Most of the Vicus was abandoned about 270AD but there was still some occupation as late as 330 AD plus
Due east of Eastgate was bathhouse, there are no visible remains
The Garrison
Housesteads Roman Fort was over 5 acres and manned with one of the largest cohorts. It was an infantry regiment of over 800. This was organised into a cohort of 10 centuries of 80 men plus ancillary troops. The first garrison was the1iSt Cohort of Tungrians a Germanic tribe from East Belgium, who moved briefly to the Antonine Wall but returned 20 years later in the 160s AD. This command was commanded by a Tribune, which would have made his one of the more senior commanders on the Wall.
This garrison was replaced after 220AD by a Frisian cohort of cavalry, probably smaller in numbers.
After the cavalry moved on about 235AD and replaced by border guards.
Conclusion
Housesteads Roman Fort was occupied for nearly 300 years and many alterations were made, but the fort’s overall size remained the same. Britain was abandoned by the empire in 411AD, and the Wall garrison was largely left to their own resources.
Within 20 years the garrison at Housesteads had drifted away.
The Wall was no longer the greatest area of conflict. The Saxon had arrived by boat.
There is also a gallery of photographs all with descriptions. Click to see
This is a reconstruction of the fort in AD 235
The inscriptions found at the site Here